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Sumptuary Laws in England

One noteable feature of the renaissance was the rise of the merchant, or middle classes. These men and women had done well for themselves, usually owned their own property and had money to afford luxuries that their peasant counterparts did not. Some members of this class had as much wealth and property as a nobleman, if not more.

What they did not have, however, was a title. The nobility was deeply concerned with keeping the newly wealthy merchant class separate from the nobility, and for that reason King Henry VIII drafted a series of laws concerning dress and personal adornment called the "Sumptuary Laws". They were quite specific, and the penalties for violating them were sometimes harsh and could include fines, the loss of property, title and even life.

Men

None shall wear . . .cloth of gold or silver, or silk of purple color. . . except . . .Earls, all above that rank, and Knights of the King (and then only in their mantles).

None shall wear . . .cloth of gold or silver, tinseled satin, silk, cloth mixed or embroidered with gold or silver, or foreign woolen cloth. . . except . . .Barons, all above that rank, Knights of the Garter, and Privy Councillors.

None shall wear . . .any lace of gold or silver, lace mixed with gold or silver, silk, spurs, swords, rapiers, daggers, buckles, or studs with gold, silver or gilt. . . except . . .Baron's Sons, all above that rank, Gentlemen attending the Queen, Knights and Captains.

None shall wear . . .velvet in gowns, cloaks, coats, or upper garments, or embroidery with silk, or hose of silk. . . except . . .Knights, all above that rank, and their heirs apparent.

None shall wear . . .velvet, satin, damask, taffeta, or grosgrain in gowns, cloaks, coats, or upper garments, or velvet in their jerkins, hose or doublets. . . except . . .Knight's Eldest Sons and all above that rank.

Women

None shall wear . . .cloth of gold or silver, or silk of purple color. . . except . . .Countesses and all above that rank. (Viscountesses may wear it in their kirtles)

None shall wear . . .silk or cloth mixed with or embroidered with silk, pearls, gold or silver. . . except . . .Baronesses and all above that rank.

None shall wear . . .cloth of silver in belts or kirtles. . . except . . .Wives of Knights and all above that rank.

None shall wear . . .embroideries of gold, silver or silk (mixed) or headdresses trimmed with pearls. . . except . . .Wives of Baron's Eldest Sons, all above that rank, Baron's Daughters, Wives of King's Knights or Privy Councillors, or Maids of Honor.

None shall wear . . .velvet in upper garments or embroidery with silk thread. . . except . . .Knight's Wives and all above that rank.

None shall wear . . .velvet in kirtles or petticoats, or satin in gowns, cloaks and other outer garments. . . except . . .Wives of Knight's Eldest Sons, Gentlewomen attending Countesses, and all above that rank.

None shall wear . . .satin, damask, taffeta or grosgrain in their gowns. . . except . . .Landed Gentlemen's Wives and all above that rank.