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Anatomy of a Nobleman's Costume

Shirt
Men always wore a shirt.. The easiest fabrics to use for a man's shirt are lawn, cotton or muslin. Usually simply gathered at the neck and wrists, you can use drawstrings, buttons or elastic (even though it's not period, if it's hidden, it will do) at the collar and cuffs. Most nobleman's shirts were worn beneath a doublet.

Doublet
Most nobility wore a doublet. This is worn over a shirt, and sometimes over a waistcoat. When choosing a style of doublet, you have many choices. The style most popular from 1550-1560 was a padded doublet with a pleated 'skirt' that hung up to six inches from the waist. The style most prevalent before 1530 was that of the 'puff and slash'. This style is seen at Renaissance Faires quite frequently, even though it was technically outdated. The 'puff and slash' consisted of a doublet that had openings 'slashed' into the fabric, through which fabric underneath could be pulled through and 'puffed'. After 1560, the style tended more toward a fitted shape that was longer, came to a 'V' in the front, and heavily padded. Usually, doublets closed with buttons. After 1575, and lasting until about 1600, a very bizarre style of doublet was popular. Known as a "peascod-bellied' doublet, it extended to well below the hips, and was very rigid. It was also stuffed with fabric or bran to keep its square-shouldered and rigid appearance. Doublets were usually made of nicer fabric, brocades, velvets, silk, taffeta and other high quality fabrics will suit for a Faire doublet. Many noblemen chose black for doublets, with accent colours on their sleeves and hose. Other colours you might want to consider are deep reds, dark or vivid blues, gold, bright saffrons and rich greens.

Sleeves
Sleeves usually did not come on a doublet, but were a separate piece of clothing entirely. Hidden at the arm joint with fabric rolls and pickadils, they laced onto the body of the doublet. Sleeves did not have to be the same shade as one's doublet, and commonly, they weren't. Sleeves can be made from the same fabrics as doublets, many noblemen had elaborate fabric rolls and pickadils (tabbed pieces of fabric) to hide the arm joint laces. You can use contrasting colours on these rolls and pickadils, or festoon them with trims. Sleeves generally differed, to fit the style of the doublet and breeches worn with it, and many nobleman had wrist-ruffs at the cuffs of their sleeves, to add even more opulence.

Ruffs
Some men, and some women as well, wore ruffs about the neck. Made of gathered, heavily starched material, or naturally stiff material, these are the large, fancy collars you see so often in portraits of the era, especially on Queen Elizabeth. Customarily white, these tend to be quite uncomfortable, but can add a touch of absolute nobility to one's costume.

Breeches
Sometimes called "upper stocks" and referred to as part of a man's hose, breeches generally reached to about the knee, or a bit below. Styles varied greatly with breeches, Venetians were tight at the waist and below the knee, giving a sort of 'bloomer' effect. One did not wear a codpiece with Venetians. "Slops" are the quintessential "puffy" pants associated with the renaissance, often decoratively slashed. Others were straight to below the knee. Breeches were generally made of the same fabrics, and in the same shades as doublets. Breeches can be decorated with trims at the knee, or be of very opulent fabric to befit one's station.

Stocks or Hose
The bottom part of a man's hose ensemble were generally little more than tights. At the time, they weren't called tights, though. Usually, it is much easier to purchase ready made tights than to try and recreate stocks as they were in the Renaissance. Stocks can either match the rest of your costume, or be of a contrasting colour. Some men even opted for stocks where each leg was of a different colour.

Underwear
Underwear was optional in the Renaissance. History notes "drawers" being around from the early medieval era. However, not everyone chose to wear them. Some men did choose to sleep in shirts and other underclothing, and they were usually made of fine lawn or silk.

Shoes
Noblemen can opt for anything from boots (generally worn up to the knee, some were cuffed) to flats. Shoes are always the hardest part of your costume. Men's flat shoes were made out of anything from leather to velvet, and decorated with fancy buckles or rosettes. Many had ankle straps. Men and women of the age wore mules, flat soled pumps, and slippers. Tall boots of supple leather, often extending up to the midthigh, were also common footwear of the period.

Codpiece
Some noblemen might also opt for a codpiece. Up until 1575, these were very elaborate and quite padded. The style after 1575 was a bit more refined. Men sometimes used these rather odd ornaments, which were essentially fabric pouches that covered the gentlemanly bits, some fashioned to protrude in a shocking manner, as pockets to keep small belongings in. A theory abounds that these were brought into fashion to guard men's doublets and hose from being stained by the greasy mercury laden ointment use for relief of syphilis. You can ornament these to your heart's content. Many noblemen had points (the laces that attached the codpiece) made of silk thread and ribbon.

Accessories
Noblemen might have carried any of the following with them: pomanders, fans, gloves, pouches, spectacles, jewelry, masks, pocket sundials, and fine silk handkerchiefs. Noblemen also might have had a silver tankard or goblet, some even would have a drinking vessel of imported Venetian glass.

Hats
All men wore hats. Hats were made of such fabrics as velvet, silk, taffeta, felt and ermine. Style varied greatly. Modified Tudor flat caps were seen, as well as smaller and more ornate hats.

Miscellaneous Men's Clothing of the Renaissance Era:

  • Falling Band - A turned down collar, sometimes edged with lace that was worn instead of a ruff.
  • Cloak - Most men, from about 1545 on, wore a cloak. Many were lined with fur or silk. The style was for shorter cloaks with a tall collar.
  • Coat - At the time, a coat was a short sleeved garment worn over a doublet, somewhat resembling a jerkin.
  • Cassock - A loose, hip-length coat with a small collar or hood. Also worn by women.
  • Biggin - A cap men wore to bed, that tied beneath their chin with ribbon.
  • Bongrace - A flat, square cap with a flap of velvet on each side.
  • Braies - Leg coverings worn under long robes.
  • Gabardine - A long, loose overcoat with draping sleeves, also worn by women.
  • Mandilion - A loose, thigh-length overcoat with a standing collar.
  • French Hose - A style of breeches in which a padded ring was worn about the waist, with hose attached to them. Rather tight, it was for the showier of men.
  • Waistcoat - Quilted male undergarment to which the breeches were attached.

    Additional Information:

    Book: Elizabethan Costuming (For The Years 1550 - 1580), Janet Winter
    Book: Patterns of Fashion : The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women C1560-1620, Janet Arnold

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