Jerkin or Doublet
Lower middle class men might still wear a jerkin, but of better quality than their peasant counterparts. Jerkins can also be made of leather, a good choice for a mercenary character. A heavy fabric is recommended for jerkins, although they were customarily not made of brocades or other fine fabrics.

Some middle class men, especially merchants, might opt for a doublet. This is worn over a shirt, and sometimes over a waistcoat. When choosing a style of doublet, you have many choices. The style most popular from 1550-1560 was a padded doublet with a pleated 'skirt' that hung up to six inches from the waist. The style most prevalent before 1530 was that of the 'puff and slash'. This style is seen at Renaissance Faires quite frequently, even though it was technically outdated. The 'puff and slash' consisted of a doublet that had openings 'slashed' into the fabric, through which fabric underneath could be pulled through and 'puffed'. After 1560, the style tended more toward a fitted shape that was longer, came to a 'V' in the front, and heavily padded. Usually, doublets closed with buttons. After 1575, and lasting until about 1600, a very bizarre style of doublet was popular. Known as a "peascod-bellied' doublet, it extended to well below the hips, and was very rigid. It was also stuffed with fabric or bran to keep its square-shouldered and rigid appearance. Doublets were usually made of nicer fabric, brocades, velvets, silk, taffeta and other high quality fabrics will suit for a Faire doublet. Middle class men with less money might wear one made of leather, some peasants even wore ones of fustian or canvas. Middle class men did not usually wear doublets that were black, or accented with gold or silver.

Codpiece
Some higher middle class men might also opt for a codpiece. Up until 1575, these were very elaborate and quite padded. The style after 1575 was a bit more refined. Men sometimes used these rather odd ornaments, which were essentially fabric pouches that covered the gentlemanly bits, some fashioned to protrude in a shocking manner, as pockets to keep small belongings in. A theory abounds that these were brought into fashion to guard men's doublets and hose from being stained by the greasy mercury laden ointment use for relief of syphilis.

Sleeves
Sleeves usually did not come on a doublet, but were a separate piece of clothing entirely. Hidden at the arm joint with fabric rolls and pickadils, they laced onto the body of the doublet. Sleeves did not have to be the same shade as one's doublet, and commonly, they weren't.

Breeches
Sometimes called "upper stocks" and referred to as part of a man's hose, breeches generally reached to about the knee, or a bit below. Styles varied greatly with breeches, Venetians were tight at the waist and below the knee, giving a sort of 'bloomer' effect. One did not wear a codpiece with Venetians. "Slops" are the quintessential "puffy" pants associated with the renaissance, often decoratively slashed. Others were straight to below the knee. Breeches were generally made of the same fabrics, and in the same shades as doublets. Breeches can be decorated with trims at the knee, or be of very opulent fabric to befit one's station.

Stocks or Hose
The bottom part of a man's hose ensemble were generally little more than tights. At the time, they weren't called tights, though. Usually, it is much easier to purchase ready made tights than to try and recreate stocks as they were in the Renaissance. Stocks can either match the rest of your costume, or be of a contrasting colour. Some men even opted for stocks where each leg was of a different colour.

Underwear
Underwear was optional in the Renaissance. History notes "drawers" being around from the early medieval era. However, not everyone chose to wear them. Some men did choose to sleep in shirts and other underclothing, and they were usually made of fine lawn or silk.

Accessories
Middle Class men might have any of the following: sets of iron keys, a fancy handkerchief, a nicely made pewter tankard or goblet (some might even have silver),gloves, jewelry (men often wore just as much jewelry as women), and pouches.

Shoes
Middle Class men can opt for anything from boots (generally worn up to the knee, some were cuffed) to flats. Shoes are always the hardest part of your costume. Men's flat shoes were made out of anything from leather to velvet, and decorated with fancy buckles or rosettes. Many had ankle straps. Men and women of the age wore mules, flat soled pumps, and slippers.

Hats
All men wore hats. Hats were made of such fabrics as velvet, silk, taffeta, felt and ermine. Style varied greatly. Modified Tudor flat caps were seen, as well as smaller and more ornate hats.

Additional Information:

Book: Elizabethan Costuming (For The Years 1550 - 1580), Janet Winter
Book: Patterns of Fashion : The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women C1560-1620, Janet Arnold